Flower Basket #35

There are 2 baskets and 2 applique blocks and we tackled them both this month.  This basket is very similar to the last basket.  I personally like the shape of the other basket better, but I love the colors of this basket.

Cutting:
Background (Orange)

• 1- 4" finished half square (4 1/2" strip EA)
• 3- 2 1/2" squares
• 2- 2" finished half squares (2 1/2" strip EA)

Basket base (light pink)

• 2- 2" finished half squares (2 1/2" strip EA)

Basket & Handle

• 1- 4" finished half Square (4 1/2" strip EA)
• 1 1/2" x 5 3/4" CUT ON BIAS

Make the handle just like this post.  Fold the 4" finished half square in half to find the middle.  Measure out 1 1/2" from the middle and pin the handle to the half square.  Sandwich the handle between the half squares and sew them together to form a 4 1/2" square.

Sew the basket base half squares together and join with the 2 1/2" squares.  Press toward the 2 1/2" squares

Eleanor- I took this apart 3 times to get the stripes all going the same direction.  I know you are the only one that this would bother. :-)

Sew the handle down by hand or using the blind hem stitch on your machine.  Take care to keep the handle more than 1/4" away from the edge.  You are going to need to press and guide the handle to get it to lay flat and form a nice arch.  A little water soluble glue or wash away tape might help hold it in place nicely while you are stitching it.

Sew the base to the basket and you are done.  Block measures 6 1/2".  I have been wanting to do a pink and orange quilt for some time.  This really gives me the itch! 

At the Sunday Sewcial, I was having a hard time finding any pieces large enough to make this block.  Judy and Ellen were scrambling to give me larger pieces so I wouldn't move on to the blocks with the itty bitty pieces.  I decided it was time for a little bit of regrouping.  Remember when I started the FW, I started with a bucket of scrap.  Then I had to keep moving to larger and larger containers.  It seemed like my scraps were growing and I was having a hard time finding the size of pieces I needed.  This is what my bucket looked like on Sunday.

I simply couldn't take it any more.  I got busy and sorted and cut things into usable shapes so I could spend my time sewing and not sorting.  This is what my scraps look like now.  I think I am ready to get smoking on the one remaining May block and move us into the month of June.

This box contains squares and half squares.  Already cut to size.

This box contains all the strips cut to size in the following sizes 1 1/2", 2", 2 1/2" and a few 3 1/2" and 4 1/2" pieces that I stacked together.  There are so many strips that my clothespins won't hook.  If it wasn't 1 1/2" it went into the string basket or the trash.  Well, not exactly the trash....I put it in a basket that I use for dog bedding. 

Basket

This is #3 according to the FW book. 

Cutting: 
Background:

• 1- 3 1/2" square
• 1- 2" square
• 2- 2 X 3 1/2"
• 1- 3" finished half square (3 1/2" strip cut with EA)
• 2- 1 1/2" finished half squares (2" strip cut with EA)

Basket:

• 2- 2" X 3 1/2"
• 2- 1 1/2" finished half squares (2" strip cut with EA)

Handle: 1 1/2" x 6" Cut on the bias

Sew the 1 1/2" finished basket triangles to the 2" background square.  Press the first one toward the square and the second one away from the square.  Add the 3" finished background triangle to make a 3 1/2" square.

 Fold the handle in half wrong sides together aligning long edges.  Sew with 1/4" seam.  Turn the handle so the seam is in the middle and press allowances open.  If you own bias bars, now is the time to get them out :-) 

Trim the seam allowance away so that it is not visible from the front.  Use the trim away method and trim away the corner of the 2" x 3 1/2" rectangles.  Fold the triangle in half to find the midpoint- place right side up.  Place the seam of the basket hand on the midpoint and pin in place.  Place the 1 1/2" finished background triangle right side down on top of the basket handle.  Join the 3 pieces with the handle in seam.

Press toward the basket piece.  Your unit should look like it has a big long tongue, and the seam allowance should not be showing

Add the 2" X 3 1/2" background rectangle to the right of the basket unit with the tongue; then add the 3 1/2" background square to the left side.  press both of these toward the background fabric. 

Add the other end of the basket handle in the same way.  Join this with the remaining 2" x 3 1/2" background piece to make a 3 1/2" square.

Now you have a simple 4 patch.

Join the square you just completed with the basket base.  It will be a little awkward since the other pieces are attached. 

Join the 2 halves to complete the block.

Press the handle in a gentle arc.  Use a blind hem stitch on your machine (or hand stitch) the handle to the background fabric.  the blind hem stitch on your machine will do a few straight stitches (meant to hit the background fabric) and it will do one zig-zag stitch (meant to hit the handle fabric)  There are several great tutorials online.  If you need help, just let me know.

Last but not least, your block should measure 6 1/2".  Are you tired of me asking that question yet?  Let me know if you like this block and method for the handle.

Tulip #96

 I found this to be a fun block to make (you may question my mental status after you make yours).  I used some fun batik scraps for mine that were gifted to me by my friend Sue.  I am excited that she will be returning to the Hoosier state soon and and we can have some girl time.

To make it easier for you to follow, I am going to refer to the colors as the colors I used.  Just cross out the name and put in your color selection. 

Cutting:

Yellow:

• 6 - 1 1/2" finished half squares (2" strip and Easy Angle)

Fuschia

• 2- 2" X 3 1/2"

Green

• 2- 1 1/2" X 4 3/4" 

Purple

• 1- 3" finished half square (3 1/2" strip EA) 

Pink

• 1- 2" x 6 1/2"
• 1- 2" x 5"

Sewing:

Use the cut away method to trim both the corners of the fuschia rectangles.  They are reversed, so make sure you put wrong sides together when you trim them.  Use the same method to trim the edges of the green and the pink.   

Add the yellow pieces to the trimmed green pieces.  They should line up very nicely when you trim off the points.

Press toward the green

Next we are going to add the Yellow to the pink pieces.  I added the side pieces - press toward the yellow.

Then add the top pieces.  Press one toward the yellow and one toward the pink. 

Join these to make a 3 1/2" square.   

Add the Yellow and green units to both sides. 

Add the smaller pink rectangle to the purple triangle and then join with the remaining piece.

Your 2 halves should be the same size.  Sew the 2 halves together with the tulip piece on the top.  By putting the tulip piec on the top, you can correctly hit the "x" and get your perfect point. 

The block should measure 6 1/2". 

Buzzard's Roost

I had lots of other names for this block.  Most of them were 4 letters.  I don't want to scare you, but I couldn't get this block to go together correctly.  The crazy part is, it is a simple block.  My words of wisdom are- Make sure you cut the pieces with the utmost accuracy.  I cut mine while watching TV on the couch.  I don't think that helped my situation.

#15 Buzzard's Roost

Cutting:
Color 1 (Pink)

• 1 -3 1/2" square
• 2 - 3" finished quarter square (2" strip Companion Angle)
• 8 - 1 1/2" finished half square (2" strip Easy Angle)

Color 2 (green)

• 6- 3" finished quarter Square (2" strip Companion Angle)

The thing I love most about the Easy angle and the Companion Angle is that you use the same strip size to get the same matching pieces!  In case you are wondering, when I say 3" finished quarter square, the 3" refers to the finished size of the base.

Start by making the flying geese units.  Join 4 color one half squares to 2 of the color 2 quarter squares.  Measure - should be 2" X 3 1/2".  As far as pressing, I like to press the first seam toward the larger triangle and the second seam toward the smaller triangle.  Join these units to the center square- press toward the center square.  Does it measure 6 1/2" X 3 1/2"?

Next add the remaining half squares to the remaining color 2 quarter squares.  Take care to put 2 on the left edge and 2 on the right edge.  Join these with the remaining 2 quarter squares.  I just noticed I have part of the pieces in the second pictures upside down, so don't go by that.  Color 2 (green) goes closest to the center square (like in the first picture) ;-) 

These units Should measure 2" X 6 1/2".  This is the part I had trouble with.  I found it helpful to trim off the points on the triangles before piecing them to get them to line up more accurately.  Join these units to the center unit to complete the 6 1/2" square.

My block did go together with ease after I cut it out accurately....the third time.  Enjoy!

More from the farm- #44

Sorry for my lack of blogging lately.  I have been trying to get caught up in other areas. 

 

 Gentleman's Fancy 

Cutting:

Color 1

• 1- 2 1/2" square
• 8- 2" finished triangles (2 1/2" Strip)

Color 2

• 4- 2" finished Quarter Squares (1 1/2" Strip cut with Companion Angle)
• 4- 1 1/2" X 5 1/2" rectangles

 I think square in a square is a hard block to keep square.  Check frequently as you add the rounds to make sure the block is still square.  One tip is to put a little crease at the midpoint of the pieces you are sewing.  Line up those creases when you join the pieces.

Start sewing by adding the quarter squares to the center square; then add the 2" finished triangles to that unit.  I always add opposite sides and then press.  Join the pieces with the triangle piece on on the bottom (next to the feed dogs).  Your quarter inch should be right where you see the "x".  You can use that as your target.  Your unit should measure 5 1/2" SQUARE.  Did you check?

 

Add the 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" rectangles in the same way.  Your rectangles should extend beyond the block, but they won't go all the way to the edge.  Place the easy angle on top of the block.  The stitch line should be exactly on the corner, the edge of the ruler is 1/4" beyond that.  You also need to line up with the seam line of the 1 1/2" strips.  (see how the 3 1/4" line is square on both the top and the left edge).  Trim off the excess and add the remaining 4 triangles. 

Another one completed! This one went together really well for me.

 

 

 

 

Boquet #8

Thanks again to whomever let the great yellow be released from their stash.  I love the gift!  I think it makes an amazing background.  Let's just say the sun is making my block bloom. 

Looking at all the pieces arranged on my mini design board, it sure looks like a mess.  This block went together really well for me.  I do have to admit after I cut the diamonds, I couldn't figure out which one went where.  I almost cut new pieces because I was convinced that I had cut them incorrectly. 

Cutting:

Background

• 7 - 1 1/2" finished half squares (2" strip EA)
• 2 - 2" X 5" rectangles

Flower and leaves

• 2 each -2" x 3 1/2" rectangles

Vase

• 3" finished half square (3 1/2" strip EA)
• 1 1/2" finished half square (2" strip EA)

I am hoping the take-away method is getting a little easier for all of you.  If you still have questions, re-read this post for a refresher. 

Lay both your petals and leaves wrong sides together (so you get a reversed piece)

Double check that your pieces are 2" x 3 1/2" and line up the 2" stitch line of the easy angle on the corner.  Use your take-away template (if you made one) to double check yourself. 

Place your template in the opposite corner to cut away the triangle making a diamond shape. 

Lay out all your pieces to make sure everything is cut correctly.  Sew 2 triangles on each of the flower petals (refer to final illustration to see how I pressed).  Use your easy angle see if your pieces are the correct size (3" finished half square lined up with the 3 1/2" line).  Sew together the two triangles to make a 3 1/2" square.  Add the leaf units to the right and bottom of the square.

Add the larger vase piece to the flower unit to make a 5" Square.  When You sew the flower & leaf unit to the vase, sew with the vase next to the feed dogs.  This will help you see your "X" where you want your seam to go and give you a perfect point on your flower.  Sew the remaining half square and join it with one of the background pieces.  Attach the remaining two pieces to complete the 6 1/2" block

This is how I pressed my block to get everything to nestle together.  Let me know if you have questions or problems.  After 111 blocks, you all will be experts with the Easy Angle and Companion Angle  (or dislike me)

Periwinkle #66

I am using Freezer Paper Templates for this block.  This is the regular freezer paper that you find in the grocery store.  The box does say that it is plastic.  I thought maybe they changed the product, but I checked the box.  You will need to print the templates for this block.  Please make sure you have the "scaling" box unchecked.  If you want to verify the size (and avoid frustration), print out template #1 from your computer with your printer.  Measure the block - it should measure 2 1/2" X 2 1/2".  If it does, go ahead and print your template 61 and 70 for block #66.  If you get another size, read all the options when you are printing and make sure you are printing actual size.

#66 Periwinkle - Cutting

Color 1- Background
Cut a 2 1/2" strip

Color 2 & 3
Cut 2 squares each 2 3/4"

Trace your templates on freezer paper.  If you want to get them accurate, use a ruler when tracing.  You can also iron the freezer paper to the paper that you printed the template on.  This will keep it from shifting

For the background color.  Since these will go all the way around the block, I marked a grain line on the long edge.

   

Lay your 2 1/2" strip wrong sides together.  This will give you 2 pieces with one being reversed.  Iron the freezer paper template to the right side of the fabric.  Place the acrylic ruler along the edge of the paper and make your first cut.  Turn your rotary mat and cut the other side in the same way.  You can either use your rotary cutter or scissors to trim off the corners to match the template.  Remove the paper and iron the template to the fabric again.  You need 4 of each piece (#61 & #61R). 

Stack the four 2 3/4" square right sides up in a stack aligning one of the corners.  Iron on template 70 aligning the point of the template with the corner of the stack.  Place your ruler on the paper template and cut with you rotary cutter.  Cut both sides, then cut the notches at the point.  You don't have to notch these, but they will help you line things up. 

Lay out all your pieces to make sure they make a square object.  This will help you to get the pattern pieces and the reversed pieces in the correct spots.

 

Sew a background piece to each of the kite shaped pieces.  Repeat with the remaining background pieces.  Press opposing sides the same (2 toward the kites, and 2 away from the kites).  Join  the units pinning the intersections.  Press toward the same color.  Measure you Unit with the easy angle.  It should be equal to a 3 1/2" half square.  

Join the 2 units to complete the 6 1/2" block. Press the final seam open.